10 Photography & Timelapse Tips for Capturing the Aurora | Michael Haluwana

Photographing the Aurora: A Guide by Michael Haluwana

Michael Haluwana is an internationally acclaimed cinematographer, photographer, and aerial videographer with over 20 years of experience. His work has been featured by National Geographic, BBC, Australian Antarctic Division, Virgin Galactic, and Canon.

Capturing the aurora is a deeply moving experience. The vivid swirls of green, purple, and red dancing through the sky are unlike anything else. As someone who's spent years chasing and capturing the aurora, both in stills and timelapse, I want to share what I've learnt to help you experience and capture it too.

Introduction: What is the Aurora?

The aurora, commonly known as the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) or Southern Lights (Aurora Australis), is a stunning natural light display caused by solar particles colliding with Earth's atmosphere. These are typically triggered by solar flares or coronal mass ejections, creating magnetic storms visible as vibrant ribbons of colour in the sky.

But capturing the aurora isn’t just about owning a good camera - it’s about preparation, awareness of your environment, and using the right tools and techniques.

Environmental Tips for Aurora Photography

Aurora Forecast

There are numerous websites and apps available to help predict aurora activity. I rely on two key sources: Space Weather Live and NOAA, which provide real-time solar activity data and solar wind speeds. These are essential for calculating the KP index, a measure of geomagnetic activity. The higher the KP index, the better your chances of seeing the aurora.

Weather Conditions

Clear skies are essential. Snowstorms and strong winds can make viewing difficult, so I always check the forecast before heading out. I mainly use the Windy app to track snow, rain, wind speed, and cloud cover - being prepared increases your chances of capturing the aurora at its best.

Choosing the Right Location

Scouting your location during daylight is vital. It allows you to plan your composition, explore different vantage points, and choose foreground or background elements that will make your images more interesting. In the Northern Hemisphere, look to the northern sky; in the Southern Hemisphere, look south.

The Role of the Moon

The moon affects how your shots turn out but won't prevent you from seeing the aurora. On moonless nights, you’ll get dramatic silhouettes, while moonlight can add depth to the landscape. I personally like having some moonlight for context, even if it brightens the scene - it’s all about adjusting your settings accordingly.

Preparing Your Camera, Equipment & Settings

Essential Equipment for Aurora Shoots

To capture high-quality aurora photos, having the right gear is essential to your workflow.

• A Sturdy Tripod – This is crucial for keeping your camera stable, especially in windy conditions that could cause unwanted movement during long exposures.
• Lens Warmer – While not strictly necessary, a lens warmer is highly useful in extremely cold conditions, particularly during long timelapse photography sessions. It helps prevent lens fogging caused by condensation.
• Intervalometer – If your camera doesn’t have a built-in intervalometer, an external one is a great tool for adjusting intervals during aurora timelapses.
• Filters – A Big No! – Avoid using filters as they can introduce unwanted artifacts and distort your aurora photos.
• Batteries & Power – Cold temperatures drain batteries quickly, so always carry spares. An external USB-C PD power bank is also a great option for charging during extended shoots.
• Memory Cards – Always have extra memory cards on hand. I use two cards simultaneously with mirroring enabled to prevent data loss. In high-end productions, losing a memory card is not an option. Trust me, it has happened before!

I recommend setting up gear in advance and ensuring all components are familiar before heading into the field. A test run indoors can help avoid fumbling with buttons in the dark.

Choosing the Right Camera & Lens

• A Quality Canon Camera – A solid camera is the foundation for capturing stunning aurora photos.
• Higher Aperture Lens – A lens with a wide aperture is key to gathering enough light for clear, detailed shots.

This is one of the most exciting aspects of aurora photography! The best camera is the one you're comfortable using, whether it's a DSLR or mirrorless. Pair it with a lens (f/2.8 or higher aperture) to capture as much light as possible. Personally, I prefer full-frame cameras for their larger pixels, which offer better low-light performance.

When it comes to lenses, I enjoy the versatility of different focal lengths to experiment with various compositions. The Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 zoom lens is a favourite of mine, but prime lenses are also excellent. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference and shooting style.

Cameras

• Canon EOS R5 Mark I and Mark II
• Canon EOS R5C (It’s a cinema camera, but takes incredible stills!)
• Canon EOS 5D MK IV (DSLRs still perform really well)

Lenses

• Canon RF 15–35mm f/2.8 (my go-to)
• Canon RF 24–70mm f/2.8 (great for tight frames of mountains or subjects)
• Canon EF 16–35mm f/2.8 (you can use EF lenses on Canon’s mirrorless bodies with an adapter)

My go to the Canon EOS R5 paired with fast, f/2.8 lenses. Wide-angle lenses like the RF 15–35mm capture the scale of the sky, while mid-range lenses like the RF 24–70mm are ideal for tighter framing. Prime lenses can also be excellent in ultra-low-light situations.

It's important to choose a camera you're comfortable with; whether DSLR or mirrorless, full-frame bodies are recommended for low-light performance.

Mastering Camera Settings

Camera Settings

To capture the aurora, I start with a base set of settings for my initial test shots, then fine-tune the exposure and ISO. One setting remains constant: the aperture stays locked at f/2.8, regardless of changes in aurora brightness.

• Key Setting: Aperture locked at f/2.8
• Adjustment: Fine-tune exposure and ISO during the shoot

Aperture

Aperture is the first setting I adjust for aurora photography. I set the widest aperture available on my lens to maximise light capture. With the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8, I start with f/2.8.

• Wide Aperture: Maximise light capture
• Lens Example: Canon RF15-35mm f/2.8 , set to f/2.8

ISO

Set the ISO to the highest value your camera can handle without introducing too much digital noise. For my Canon EOS R5, I usually work between ISO 1500–4000. If the landscape is lit by a full moon, I’ll start lower, around ISO 800.

• Ideal ISO Range: 1500–4000 (Canon EOS R5)
• Full Moon Exposure: ISO 800

Shutter Speed / Exposure

I start with a 5-second shutter speed, adjusting between 1 to 15 seconds based on the aurora’s activity. These settings can vary depending on intensity and movement.

Faint, static auroras: 7–15 seconds
Bright, active auroras: 1–3 seconds

I’ve gone as short as 0.5 seconds and as long as 20 seconds, but you’ll learn to adapt these settings quickly in the field.

Exposure Adjustments and What to Expect

If the aurora is weak, I increase the exposure time for more light. Longer exposures result in smoother aurora movements, while shorter exposures preserve crispness for fast-moving auroras.

• Weak Aurora: Increase exposure time (7–15 seconds)
• Active Aurora: Decrease exposure for crisp details (1–3 seconds)

White Balance

Use manual white balance to maintain consistency across photos and timelapses. I typically start with a 3500 Kelvin setting.

• Manual White Balance: Ensures consistency
• Starting Point: 3500 Kelvin

Focusing

Always use manual focus. Set the lens to manual focus (AF/MF switch), zoom in on a bright object (like a star or moon), and adjust until it’s sharp. Test focus before the shoot and avoid moving the focus ring or tripod. I always double-check after any movement—especially for timelapse work.

• Manual Focus: Essential for clarity
• Focus on Bright Objects: Use stars, moon, or distant lights

Here are some methods I use:

• Use a bright star or moon to focus on infinity.
• If there’s a well-lit background, focus on that for clarity.
• Practice focusing before your shoot to ensure sharp, clear images.

Optimising In-Camera Settings

Aurora photography is closely linked to long exposure night photography and astrophotography. To optimise your shots, I recommend using these general camera settings:

• Screen Brightness: Lower your screen brightness to get a more realistic view of your shots. I usually set it between low to mid-range.
• Shoot in RAW: Shooting in RAW captures more detail, essential for effective post-processing, especially when working with shadows and highlights.
• In-Camera Noise Reduction: Turn off the long exposure noise reduction setting. It can take several seconds to process, and you don’t want to lose valuable time when the aurora is active. You can handle noise reduction in post-editing.
• Single Photo Mode: For single shots, use an external shutter release or set a 2-second timer to minimise camera movement. I prefer using the Canon 2-second inbuilt timer to avoid extra gear while shooting in the dark.
• Timelapse Photography: For timelapses, set the interval to 2 seconds between shots. This gives enough time to preview each shot and allows the camera to write data to the memory card.
• Check Your Histogram: Natural light and external displays can sometimes trick your eyes. As a good practice, always check the histogram. Aim to keep the results towards the left without clipping the blacks in the image.

Composing the Perfect Aurora Shot

Yes, the aurora is the star, but don’t forget the world below it. Creative composition makes your shots memorable:

• Include foreground like mountains, trees or icy lakes
• Capture reflections in water or ice
• Use distant town lights or stars for contrast
• Include people or animals for scale and storytelling
• Be flexible and explore different vantage points and elements

Elements like roads, bridges, and even fences can be used to add lines and depth to your composition. The goal is to balance the sky with grounded features.

Shooting a Timelapse of the Aurora

I love capturing timelapses as it brings out the motion and magic of the aurora in a way a single image can’t. I use the same settings as still shots, but always ensure a base setup that accounts for changes in brightness.

Before You Start:

• Fully charge your batteries or connect external power
• Format memory cards and ensure you have plenty of space
• Clean your lens and double-check focus
• Make sure your tripod is locked in place

If you’re using a timer for test shots, turn it off before starting your sequence.

Set a 2-second interval between shots—it’s a great balance between data writing and preview time.

Pro tip: If you can, use two cameras. One for a locked-off timelapse, the other for creative shots.

Tried & Tested Best Practices

Here’s one of my biggest tips: set up your camera on the tripod indoors, then turn off all the lights and get used to adjusting settings in the dark. Know your gear inside out—it’ll save you time and frustration out in the field.

Preparation is everything. I often do test shots inside my cabin before heading out. Once outside, I set up the timelapse camera first and let it run. Then I focus on creative compositions with my second camera.

Familiarise yourself with your camera buttons in total darkness. Practise finding settings without light—this will save you time and stress out there

Lastly, don’t rush. I know it’s exciting (I still get giddy every time!), but take a breath, capture a few solid frames, then dial in your settings and enjoy the moment.

• Always bring two cameras and tripods if possible
• Prep all gear indoors, including test shots in the dark
• Practise navigating the camera by touch
• Get your first shots quickly—then fine-tune

Learn From the Best: Join Michael’s Aurora Tours

Whether it’s your first attempt or your next great capture, photographing the aurora is an experience like no other. Michael’s Aurora Photography Tours help participants master composition, settings, and night-shooting techniques in some of the most stunning landscapes in the world.

Explore the night sky with Michael:

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